Who Are EDWIN? The Story of Japanese Denim

Who Are EDWIN? The Story of Japanese Denim

EDWIN may be best known today for well-cut jeans and understated workwear, but its history runs alongside the development of Japan’s denim industry itself.

From importing used American jeans after the Second World War to developing heavyweight denim and new washing techniques, EDWIN helped shape the character of Japanese denim. That combination of heritage, practical design and clothing made to improve with wear is precisely why the brand belongs at Unit 17.

From imported jeans to Japanese denim

The EDWIN story began in Japan in 1947. At the time, denim was not being manufactured domestically, so founder Tsunemi Yonehachi imported used jeans from the United States and sold them to Japanese customers.

Japanese-made denim became available during the 1950s, although the earliest fabrics were expensive and did not yet match the quality of their American equivalents. Rather than accepting that limitation, Tsunemi continued working towards producing a better Japanese jean.

In 1961, the first jeans carrying the EDWIN name appeared. The name itself was created by rearranging the letters in “denim” and turning the M upside down to form a W.

By 1963, EDWIN had produced a heavyweight 16oz ring-spun denim jean featuring its distinctive three-colour rainbow selvedge. This was unusually substantial denim for the period and an early indication of the company’s willingness to experiment.

Changing how denim ages

EDWIN’s contribution was not limited to manufacturing heavier fabric. The company also explored how new jeans could be given the character of an older, regularly worn pair.

According to EDWIN’s official history, the brand developed its “old wash” during the 1970s before introducing stone washing in the following decade. During the 1990s, it continued that work through its “new vintage” concept, recreating the fading, wear and character associated with well-used vintage denim.

Those innovations helped make washed denim commercially accessible, but the underlying principle remains relevant today: denim should develop character rather than remain completely unchanged.

The EDWIN Nashville Jean

The EDWIN Nashville Jean Blue Unwashed is one of the clearest links between the brand’s history and its current collection.

It is a traditional straight-leg jean with a higher rise, designed to sit higher on the hips than many contemporary cuts. The shape has remained largely unchanged for around 20 years, giving it the feel of a genuine EDWIN classic rather than a seasonal reinterpretation.

The Nashville is made from 14oz Japanese red-list selvedge denim and finished with a button fly, five-pocket construction, contrasting stitching and a tanned leather patch. It is also the only EDWIN jean to retain the brand’s original leather patch and woven back-pocket label.

Because this version is unwashed, the denim initially feels firmer and cleaner than a pre-washed jean. With regular wear, the fabric softens and the indigo gradually develops creases and fading influenced by the wearer. No two pairs will age in exactly the same way.

If you want a classic straight silhouette with enough room to wear comfortably, the Nashville is an excellent place to begin. We recommend trying unwashed denim in person wherever possible, particularly if you are deciding between sizes.

Denim beyond jeans

The EDWIN Work Shirt in Blue Light Used applies the same practical approach to an everyday layer.

Its washed blue finish gives it a softer, already worn-in appearance, contrasting with the deeper, cleaner indigo of the unwashed Nashville. It can be worn buttoned as a shirt, left open over a T-shirt or used beneath a heavier jacket when the temperature drops.

Pairing the Work Shirt with the Nashville also demonstrates the range within denim. The different washes provide enough separation to wear both together without the outfit feeling overly matched.

Why EDWIN works at Unit 17

The brands we choose tend to share a practical quality. Their clothes are designed to be worn regularly, combined easily and kept for longer than a single season.

EDWIN fits naturally into that approach. Its jeans have clear, understandable shapes, while its shirts and everyday pieces draw on workwear without feeling like costume. The details are considered, but rarely added simply for decoration.

The Nashville is particularly useful because it offers a genuinely traditional straight fit at a time when many jeans are still cut low or heavily tapered. The Work Shirt complements it as an uncomplicated layer that becomes easier to wear as the fabric develops.

Shop EDWIN in Cardiff

You can shop the current EDWIN collection online or visit Unit 17 at 12 Morgan Arcade in Cardiff.

If you are uncertain about the Nashville fit or want to compare it with another style, we always recommend visiting us in store. Denim is personal, and trying it on remains the best way to find the right size and shape.

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